Marsascala, Marsaskala, Wied il-Ghajn or the abbreviated M’Scala or M'Skala all refer to the village located at Malta’s south east. In fact the area near St Thomas Tower, the site of the now derelict 4 star Jerma Palace Hotel is the island’s most eastern point. Until about 40 years ago this village had a very small resident population of fishermen and farmers that would increase considerably during the summer period when families living inland would move to their small summer residence so as to be closer to the sea. At the turn of the century the population of this village was well under 100 and by 1970s it stood at fewer than 1,000. The population of this village had, as at 2010, exceeded 10,000.
A large group of more than 70 assembled near the village’s parish church for the walk directed by Rambler volunteers Elaine Pirotta and Patricia Horzella. From the meeting point the group headed toward Zonqor Point along the bay as close to the water’s edge as possible given the sizable group and a walk rating of Moderate. The rocky coast was littered with men and women, in groups of two and three, fishing rod in one hand and a beverage in the other, spending this Sunday morning in the company of each other.
The group passed by Zonqor Tower. This is one of a series of 13 towers built by Grand Master Martin de Redin in 1659. This tower together with St Thomas Tower built by Grand Master Fra Alof de Wignacourt 45 years earlier were intended to protect against the landing of troops in Marsascala bay and to act as a line of communication if an invasion took place. During the second world war, and for similar reasons, a Pillbox was constructed in the area. It still stands. Pillboxes were guard posts with minute openings through which those inside could fire out. They were built out of concrete and could withstand small fire-arms and grenades. We passed by numerous pillboxes during this ramble.
In the area the group passed by the Zonqor Point salt pans. During the summer months, small natural and man-made ponds cut into the rock are filled with sea water. The water evaporates leaving behind the sea salt and other minerals dissolved in the water. Eventually the salt is gathered and after further processing, is sold as rough table salt.
From Zonqor the group took a route along the coastline towards the small village of Xghajra. Aside from the recently disposed fridges, washing machines, bathroom tiles and other debris the group passed by another one of the towers built by Grandmaster de Redin. It is known as Triq il-Wiesgha Tower and has been recently restored.
The coastline is particularly colourful. The bluish green sea moistens rocks on top of which grows red and green lichen. This compliments the dry surfaces which consist of a patchwork of red, black, white and yellow rock mixed into each other as one expects a perfect marble cake to be.
The group then stopped for a short rest in the vicinity of the sewage treatment plant in the Ta’ Barkat area of Xghajra. The €60 million EU part-funded plant became operational in 2011. It is treating 80% of sewage generated in Malta. Malta became the first country in the Mediterranean to treat all its sewage before pumping it out 1 km into the sea.
The walk leaders did not take the group to the centre of Xghajra but led them along a series of footpaths and secondary roads that ran past cultivated land and farms that zigzag between the towns of Zabbar and Marsascala. Of particular interest was a stop for a group photo near the landmark building known as Il-Kunvent tal-Barunissa or Id-Dar tal-Barunissa. Many of the locals and older folk know it as Id-Dar tas-Soru, the name of a popular fictional TV series that used this complex as its main external location. At the time, the huge success of the series led to an invasion by people curious to visit this uninhabited site. Vandals broke into the place and considerable damage was done to it.
Id-Dar tas-Soru (I’ll use the popular name) knows its origins to the construction of a chapel in 1656 dedicated to St Leonard, from which the name of the locality stems. It was originally intended to be used as a convent but was never utilised for such a purpose. Additional buildings and features were added up to the early 20th century. Today this property is scheduled as a Grade 2 national monument.
Group photo over, the ramblers then crossed the old road leading from Zabbar into Marsascala and headed towards the area known as Bidni. The region known as Bidni comprises many isolated properties and farms and is served by a small chapel dedicated to the “Madonna tad-Dawl” (Our Lady of Light). It was built in the 18th century and replaced a chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist that had been abandoned after locals deserted the area because of persistent attacks by the Turks.
About 10 meters away from this chapel is a stone monument. On it are 3 Crosses with the central one adorned with the Passion Symbols. Guze Muscat Azzopardi , lawyer, politician, author, founder and president of "Ghaqda Kittieba tal-Malti" an organisation set up to promote the Maltese language, theatre critic and editor of a number of publications gives three versions regarding the origin of this monument: it is a tomb stone for three monks who were killed by the Turks and buried there; the people of Zejtun buried a man who had died of the plague at this location and erected this monument (either to mark the burial place and/or as an offering to God to keep the plague away from the village); a legend about an elderly hermit who, was buried at this location three times each time arising from his tomb.
An alternative story is that this monument marks the demarcation between Zabbar and Zejtun. Before 1615, the area making up Marsascala and Zabbar still formed part of the parish of Zejtun. The inhabitants of Zabbar made a request to Bishop Cagliares so that they would become an independent parish. Bishop Cagliares granted their request and on 10th January 1616 Rev. Angelo Pontremoli was appointed parish priest of the new parish of Zabbar. At the time Marsascala did not exist as a parish (it would take until 1949 for this event to take place) and so the territory that would eventually be Marsascala was split between Zabbar and Zejtun.
Having rested for a few minutes at Bidnija, the group then walked down the hill, crossed the road and headed uphill again towards the area known as San Anard. The group passed by the Chapel dedicated to St Nicholas and headed towards the Zonqor Estate. This area is on high ground and from certain positions one has view of the coast all the way towards Valletta and Hurds Bank. Hurds Bank is an area out at sea that shallows to a depth of just over 50 meters. Many a times it is packed with ships idling here before heading towards their new destination. On the day there were quite a few cargo ships, tankers and other large vessels visible from this location. From the Zonqor Estate, the group made towards the coast were they followed part of the route they took initially until they arrived back at the starting point.
Ramblers’ Association of Malta is a not-for-profit organisation set up to promote rambling activities as a means of a healthy lifestyle. It does this by identifying and maintaining the network of public footpaths in the open countryside. In doing so it aims to protect and develop the natural beauty and the cultural heritage of the Maltese Islands as well as the environment while at the same time organise educational activities and convey information useful to all its members. Such walks are attended by members and international guests who would have contacted the organisation beforehand.
